Albania Travel Photography: Berat, Osumi Canyon & Eleusa Village

Albania is a dream for travel photographers, and this part of my journey shows exactly why. After the Albanian Alps and Krujë’s traditional hat makers, I continued south to capture new stories and landscapes. From photographing the historic facades of Berat, the “city of a thousand windows,” to exploring the dramatic cliffs of Osumi Canyon, I kept finding locations that felt made for a photo tour. I also stopped in the quiet village of Eleusa, where timeless rural life makes for intimate photography, before taking the scenic mountain drive towards Lake Prespa on my way into North Macedonia.

Berat – The City of a Thousand Windows

From Krujë I continued my journey south through Albania. My next stop was the town of Berat, where I had last been about 12 years ago. I was really looking forward to returning to this wonderful city, this time with more opportunities for photography.

This historic town is built along the Osumi River, squeezed between two hills. Its Ottoman architecture is beautifully preserved, and that’s the main draw for photographers. It’s nicknamed the city of a thousand windows—though I jokingly called it the city of a thousand power lines. 🙂 The historic core is divided into three distinct parts, each offering a different atmosphere and plenty of photographic opportunities.

The upper part, known as Kalaja (or fortress), is more than just ruins. It’s a living town where people still reside and run businesses. You’ll find restaurants, shops, B&Bs, as well as churches, a mosque, and remnants of the old fortress walls. Best of all, Kalaja offers incredible views down to the rooftops of the other two quarters of Berat and across the valley beyond. I had the most delicious dinner at Temi Albanian Food, a small and charming family-run restaurant.

Next is the Ottoman quarter of Mangalem, once the city’s bustling heart during Ottoman times. Today it’s still lively, though mostly with tourists. Narrow lanes hide countless B&Bs, restaurants, and shops, and the best way to experience it is simply to get lost with your camera in hand. Several historic mosques and a tekke are scattered around, with beautiful architectural details waiting to be photographed. If you can, explore in the early morning when the light is soft and the streets are quiet.

Finally, across the river lies the old Christian quarter of Gorica. The atmosphere here is much more relaxed and authentic, with fewer tourists and more locals going about their day. It’s an ideal place to slow down, photograph everyday life, and discover old churches tucked into the alleys.

Osumi Canyon – Albania’s Natural Wonder

After leaving Berat behind, I followed the Osumi River further south on my Albania scouting trip. Just past the town of Çorovodë, the river has carved an incredible canyon that I was eager to explore.

There are several viewpoints overlooking the canyon. Some are well-marked and popular with tourists, while others are hidden and require a bit of hiking and light climbing to reach. I thoroughly enjoyed my time here. And after a hot walk I even dipped into the muddy river to cool off.

Along the riverbanks you’ll find a few simple restaurants and campsites, but for the most part the Osumi still feels like a wild river—untamed and raw, just as it should be.

I would have loved to spend more time here and photograph the canyon in different light, but I had to keep moving. My North Macedonia photo tour was starting in just two days. My next stop was planned around Përmet, or somewhere nearby, as I wanted to visit Leus village the following morning.

Instead of sticking to the main road, I chose a mountain shortcut. And I’m so glad I did—the drive was spectacular—wild nature, rugged mountain scenery, and not a soul around. The photos below offer a glimpse of the beauty I was fortunate enough to experience. That evening, I camped on the banks of the Vjosa River, one of Europe’s last wild rivers.

Eleusa Village – A Glimpse of Traditional Life

Early the next morning, I set out for the Eleusa village (also known as Leus). The access road is rough and only suitable for 4×4 vehicles with high clearance. Luckily, my Toyota Land Cruiser handled it well—the only real challenge was finding enough space to park once I reached the village. Here, the primary means of transportation are still donkeys and horses, since the steep, narrow streets aren’t built for cars.

The reason I wanted to visit Eleusa was a trip report by my friend Nebojša, who had been there a few months earlier. (Check out his blog for more Balkan travel inspiration!) His photos of the village’s main church convinced me to add Eleusa to my scouting itinerary.

Walking through the village truly felt like stepping back in time. There were almost no power lines, no satellite antennas on rooftops, and only a handful of rusty old 4x4s. Communicating with locals was a challenge—my few words of Albanian didn’t get me very far—but I managed to find out that the church would be opened in about an hour. So I waited, wandering the village lanes with my camera.

When I returned, the church was indeed open. A local woman had unlocked it for a small group of visitors, and I joined them. Inside, the frescoes were breathtaking—beautifully preserved, with colors far richer than I expected. Sadly, the exterior frescoes had not fared as well; many were damaged by graffiti, which was heartbreaking to see. The caretaker was kind enough to open the back side of the church, too, allowing me to climb up to the balcony. There I was greeted by a surprise—a colony of small bats sleeping on the ceiling of the dome.

Eleusa was absolutely worth the visit! I left with a promise to myself: next time, I’ll come with someone who can help me connect with the locals and hear their stories first-hand.

Përmet to Lake Prespa

In the afternoon I continued my drive towards the North Macedonian border at Lake Prespa. At first, the road followed the Vjosa River, making the journey a real pleasure. I stopped at the famous riverbend near Kanikol village—a spot every photographer should have on their list!

Pro tip: don’t just stick to the roadside viewpoint. Walk a little further for a cleaner composition, or even better, send up a drone and create a panorama to capture the entire bend of the river in one frame.

Late in the evening, I reached the border town of Pustec, on the Albanian side of Lake Prespa. I decided to spend the night here before meeting my group in North Macedonia the next day. Coincidentally, it was also my birthday—a perfect excuse to slow down, relax, and enjoy the lake views. I set up my rooftop tent, gathered some firewood, and treated myself to a simple but memorable dinner with a view.

The next morning, I took a few final shots of the peaceful lake before packing up and crossing the border. Until we meet again, Albania!

Albania Travel Photography – Conclusion

Although I had visited Albania a few times before, I’m really glad I did this scouting trip. I discovered so many new places to photograph, enjoy a good meal, and experience Albania’s unique culture. Travel photography in Albania is incredibly rewarding if you give yourself the time to slow down and embrace a journey that may be a little less comfortable, with fewer tourist amenities—but that’s exactly what makes it so authentic. And to me, it’s totally worth it!

If you’re interested in photographing Albania, feel free to get in touch. I’m planning a photography workshop for a small group of travel photographers, and I’d love to share these locations with fellow enthusiasts.