I spent two days in Kruje while scouting Albania for future photo workshops. I chose this town for its historical significance, scenic location, and traditional crafts. Kruje is known for preserving two traditional crafts: carpet weaving and Albanian hat making. The felt hat, locally known as qeleshe or plis, has been produced for generations at the Qeleshepunues Hyseni workshop. Ndriçim Guni and his son Ardian continue to craft felt hats and slippers using traditional, centuries-old methods in their workshop, located in the heart of the old bazaar in Kruje (Pazari i Vjetër i Krujës).
First, let’s talk about Krujë town a little. Then we can get to the story of the Albanian hat.
Krujë Town in Photos
Krujë (also spelled Kruje or Kruja) is a small historic town nestled in the mountains, offering views that stretch all the way to the Adriatic Sea. It is located about a 30-40 minute drive north of Tirana, making it ideal for a half-day visit. The town was once the capital of medieval Albania in the 12th century and later became the stronghold of Skanderbeg during his rebellion against the Ottomans. Today, statues and souvenirs of this national hero can be found throughout the town.
Krujë is built on hills—there is no flat ground, only up or down hill! The centrally located Hotel Panorama is not only the most convenient in terms of location but also offers stunning views of the fortress and the town. The view from their rooftop terrace is particularly beautiful at sunset. I opted to stay in my rooftop tent, so I booked a charming little campsite above the city called Ledinga. The owner, Lipi, is fantastic—super helpful and passionate about the city. If you visit early in the season, he might even have some organic olive oil for sale.
Krujë’s old bazaar is filled with cheap souvenirs from Turkey and China, but it’s still enjoyable to stroll through and soak in the atmosphere. There are a few interesting antique shops, and don’t miss the workshop making traditional Albanian hats!
For a great meal, head to the fortress. Nearby, you’ll find the amazing Bardhi restaurant, where all the food is fresh and organic, sourced directly from their own farm. They even produce their own Cognac, which is a must-try!
At the Albanian Hat Workshop
The Qeleshepunues Albanian hat workshop is located in the heart of the Old Bazaar in Krujë. On the shop window, there’s a large sign that reads, “No Photo, No Video,” and similar signs are scattered throughout the interior. With my camera slung over my shoulder, I entered the shop. The display of hats and felt slippers in various shapes and sizes filled the space, and it was clear that these were not modern, mass-produced items, but artisanal pieces crafted with care. From downstairs, I could hear the sounds of someone working.
Downstairs, Ndriçim was skillfully processing wool with his specialty bow and wooden hammer. I quietly observed him for a while before he paused and asked where I was from. “Slovenia,” I replied, adding, “Amazing workshop! This seems like hard work.” He nodded in agreement, then glanced at my camera. “Have you seen the signs above?” he asked. “Yes, I did,” I answered. “You can take photos,” he said with a smile. “The signs are for the tourists who don’t respect my craft.” “Faleminderit,” I responded, and began taking photos as he resumed his work. Below is a series of photos that capture the traditional process of making felt hats and slippers. I took these photos over the course of two days to capture the entire process of making the Albanian hat.
Generational Family Business
Ndriçim inherited both his craft and the workshop from his father, and he is now training his son, Ardian, to carry on the tradition. This has been the way of their family for generations, with each member involved in the business in some capacity. Ndriçim and Ardian handle the production and procurement, while Ardian’s wife, Clementina, manages the shop upstairs and assists in the workshop when needed. Ndriçim’s wife operates their second souvenir shop, Souvenir Guni, also located in the Old Bazaar.
The business has some notable successes like a large order from a French design company that uses their hats as chandeliers in its portfolio. Ardian proudly showed me their instagram with photos from the day famous Albanian singer Dua Lipa visited their workshop. The Youtuber Eva zu Beck also published a vlog about their workshop. Despite their success, the business remains challenging, especially as it becomes harder to compete with the influx of cheap, machine-made hats from Asia.
The Process of Making the Albanian Hat
Making a felt hat is a labor-intensive process. Ndriçim estimates that it takes about three hours to craft a single hat from start to finish. To manage this, the work is divided into stages. First, quality wool must be sourced from shepherds in northern Albania. The wool is then washed and cleaned three times before it reaches the workshop. That’s when the real hard work begins.
Ndriçim uses his bow and a wooden hammer to separate and loosen the wool fibers. He then forms loose balls of wool, each sized to fit a single hat or slipper. Ardian takes these balls and transfers them to his work table, where he compresses them into thin, pizza-shaped sheets. These are then pressed under weights overnight to make them even thinner.
The next day, Ndriçim and Ardian sit at the same table—one working on hats, the other on slippers. The process is similar for both. The compressed wool is soaked in soap and water, and then the shaping begins. There is a lot of grinding, soaking, squeezing, washing, and ironing involved. Any remaining debris, like grass seeds, is carefully removed, and finally, the felt is placed on wooden molds to shape it to the desired form. Once this is complete, the hats and slippers are left to dry.
As you can see, a great deal of labor goes into creating these finished products, and the selling price reflects this effort. After seeing the entire process, I actually think the price is still quite reasonable!
Conclusion
The qeleshe hat-making workshop in Krujë is one of the most authentic experiences in the town, and arguably in all of Albania. If you have the time, be sure to visit both Krujë and this workshop! Unlike the mass-produced trinkets you’ll find in the Old Bazaar, the felt products here are genuine souvenirs, crafted by local artisans rather than coming from nameless factories in China or Turkey.
I hope you enjoyed the story and photos! More content from Albania and the Balkans is coming soon. If you’re interested in joining me on a photo tour of Albania, send me a note, and I’ll add you to the interest list.
