Lukomir village is one of the last remaining mountain villages where locals still live in traditional houses and maintain large flocks of sheep. Located on the Bjelašnica plateau, it is accessible from Sarajevo as a day trip. The road to Lukomir is incredibly scenic, especially the final stretch when you enter the vast, empty plateau of Bjelašnica.
I first visited Lukomir in 2009 and spent a night there. My most recent visit in the summer of 2024 was brief, just for lunch and a walk around. However, it was enough to see how Lukomir has changed over the years. Read on for photos and the full story.
Lukomir Village in 2009
When I started my photography workshops business in 2009, I decided to scout and research the former Yugoslavian countries for potential photo tours. Bjelašnica and Lukomir were among the places I wanted to explore in more depth. Together with my two photography buddies, Ana and Andrej, we drove up the mountain from Sarajevo without any clear idea of what to expect, where to stay, or where to eat.
Upon arriving in Lukomir, we asked around for a place to stay. Everyone pointed us toward Fatima, who had hosted guests before and could take care of us. We found her home in the village and quickly accepted her invitation for coffee. Fatima and her husband agreed to let us spend the night in their home. Before sunset, we wandered around the village, taking photographs. We hiked up to a nearby viewpoint that offered stunning views of the village and the Rakitnica canyon below. It was incredible to watch the local shepherds tending to their sheep, guiding them into enclosures for the night. There were hundreds and hundreds of sheep.
We returned to Fatima’s house and shared the cheese pies we had brought from Sarajevo for dinner.
The next morning, we went out early to photograph around the village. Later, as we were saying our goodbyes to our hosts, Fatima gave us a huge loaf of bread that she had baked herself. It was delicious! We left Lukomir full of impressions and memories.
Photos from my first visit
Lukomir Village in 2024
A lot has changed since my last visit in 2009. I returned to the village again in 2011, but not since then. This summer, we were on an overlanding trip around Bosnia-Herzegovina, with Bjelašnica as one of our destinations. Since we were close to Lukomir, we decided to visit. I was a bit reluctant—it seems like everyone is offering day trips from Sarajevo to Lukomir these days. I had also heard stories about how touristy the village has become, with restaurants, hostels, souvenirs, and lots of day visitors. But I decided to visit with an open mind.
I was pleased to see that the road to Lukomir remains as scenic as I remembered. The rough gravel road and harsh landscapes still evoke a sense of remoteness and beauty.
Upon arrival, we parked at one of the designated parking areas and continued on foot. There are now numerous restaurants offering local food, homemade juices, coffee, and beer. Souvenir stalls sell sheep wool products, wooden carvings, honey, and other local items. However, there are far fewer sheep in the village, and more houses are abandoned. A few new buildings have appeared, and a couple of construction sites indicate that the village continues to evolve.
We enjoyed a nice lunch at one of the restaurants and then walked to the village viewpoint. On the way, I met Vejsil and Rahima, an elderly couple I had met before. I sat down with them for a chat while my family continued to the viewpoint. I took out my phone and showed the couple photos of the people from my 2009 visit to Lukomir. Vejsil recognized everyone and shared their names with me. Sadly, a few people have passed away since then. Fatima has moved to Sarajevo and no longer returns to the village. I took a few portraits of Rahima and Vejsil before rejoining my family.
Photos from my recent visit
Nura
The most memorable experience I had in Lukomir was meeting Nura (Nurija). Nura was an elderly Muslim lady in her eighties who had outlived her husband and all of their children. She was the only person who stayed in Lukomir through the harsh winters. When we met her in 2009, she was selling woolen socks to supplement her income. The local children seemed to adore her and were always around her. Nura passed away in 2016, and with her, a special era seems to have ended. Now, only a plaque on her house remains as a memory—a poignant reminder of our mortality and the importance of living life to the fullest.
Conclusion
I’m glad I visited the village again, and I recommend it to anyone interested in learning more about traditional Bosnia and its people. Nature and mountain lovers will also find it worthwhile, as Bjelašnica is stunningly beautiful and offers excellent hiking opportunities.
Yes, Lukomir village has changed—a lot! However, it still retains its charm and authentic feel. Local people continue to live there during the summer, going about their daily routines, farming, and tending to sheep and cows. Spend time with them, learn their stories, and support them by buying their products. Don’t just come as a day visitor when the village is crowded with tours. Instead, choose less busy days and spend a night in the area.
There are new hotels at the Olympic area of Babin Do where you can stay. For a more authentic experience, consider staying in Umoljani village or directly in Lukomir—locals offer rooms, and this is a wonderful way to give back to the local community.
And if you want to explore Bosnia-Herzegovina more in-depth, check out the photography spots I’ve added to Photohound.
