Looking for a true hidden gem in North Macedonia? Let me take you to Lazaropole.
We discovered this spot during our two-week family overlanding trip this summer. We traveled by Land Cruiser with a rooftop tent, hitting four different national parks—from Šar Planina to Pelister and Lake Prespa. But our final stop in Mavrovo National Park was special. We made our base in Lazaropole, a quiet mountain village that feels completely undiscovered.
Although I have been to North Macedonia numerous times—traveling privately and leading photography workshops—I had never visited Lazaropole before. I had read about it a few times, so I was familiar with the Mijak people, the Teškoto dance, and the natural beauty of Mavrovo. This time, I made sure we allowed enough time to really explore the village.
Mavrovo National Park: A Pleasant Surprise
My Macedonian friend and tour guide, Daniel, had been telling me about the beauty of Mavrovo National Park for years. He would rave about the forests, the waterfalls, and the beautiful, untouched nature. We had even made quick stops before—a short visit to the famous village of Galičnik during a photo trip, and a quick session photographing the iconic Sunken Church (St. Nicholas) in Mavrovo Lake.
But I never really felt the urge to explore deeper.
Coming from Slovenia, a country full of green mountains, I wasn’t necessarily looking for more of the same. When I visit North Macedonia, I usually chase the things that feel totally different from home: the rocky peaks of Pelister, the timeless Lakes Ohrid and Prespa, or the historic monasteries and traditional villages. I thought I had seen enough “forest and mountain” scenery to skip this part.
I was wrong.
The three short days we spent in Mavrovo were amazing. The remoteness, the unspoilt nature, and old villages like Lazarpole and Gari really surprised me. We only scratched the surface; there is so much more to explore! We haven’t even visited the western mountains, including North Macedonia’s highest peak, Golem Korab.
The Mountain Village of Lazarpole
Traveling from Lake Prespa to Mavrovo, we didn’t know where we would be sleeping yet. We had done some research and knew we wanted to visit two historic Mijak villages: Gari and Lazaropole.
We started with Gari. We had a fantastic lunch at a delightful local restaurant called Topila and spent some time exploring the village. But as beautiful as it was, Gari was just too narrow and hilly for us. We couldn’t find a level, secluded spot for the rooftop tent. So, we descended back to the main road and crossed over toward Lazaropole.
We fell in love with Lazaropole the moment we saw it appear around the last corner. The traditional stone houses were scattered across the hills, framed by wide, open views that we didn’t get in the steep valley of Gari.
We parked the Land Cruiser in the “center” and explored on foot, walking past the old houses and up to the elevated viewpoint. We also stopped by the massive village church, but it was locked. An old man nearby told us to come back the next morning when it would be open for visitors.
I was surprised by how busy it was—it seems to be a popular retreat for locals escaping the city heat. Despite the activity, the vibe was relaxed, and everyone was incredibly friendly. When we asked about camping, a few locals pointed us in the right direction.
We followed their advice and found a beautiful meadow with grazing horses and a small mountain stream, all decorated with tall yellow mullein flowers. We set up camp and spent the rest of the day relaxing in nature.
Photos of Lazarpole and Our Camping Area
A Quick History Lesson
There is a reason Lazaropole feels so secluded—it was born out of survival. Legend says the village was founded by a man named Lazar, the sole survivor of a medieval attack who crawled out of a cave and rebuilt his life on this high plateau. Hence the name: Lazar’s Field. Sitting at 1,350 meters, this is the heartland of the Mijaks, a tribe of master woodcarvers and masons who built some of the most stunning monasteries in the Balkans. It is also the spiritual home of Teškoto (The Hard One)—that slow, hypnotic folk dance that symbolizes the struggle and pride of these mountain people.
The Fortress Church of St. George
The next morning we prepared an easy breakfast, packed our campsite and returned to the village. We walked to the church, which was now open for the Sunday ceremony. Built in 1841 by a local leader named Gjurčin Kokale, the Church of St. George (Црква Св. Ѓорѓија) was designed to look like a fortress to protect the villagers from bandit raids, which were common in the “Wild West” days of the Ottoman Empire. The exterior is all tough, defensive stone, but the inside is pure art. It features a stunning iconostasis and vibrant frescoes painted by Dicho Zograf, the most famous Mijak painter of the 19th century.
We spent almost two hours at the church, marveling at the masterpieces inside. It was interesting to watch the locals come and go and see how they interact with each other. The local priest was very friendly—he even invited our boys to pull the rope and ring the church bells!
I completely forgot about the time while photographing the interior. The church is full of interesting artwork details and the light was beautiful. Below is a small collection of my favorite photos of the church.
Photos of St George Church in Lazarpole
A Waterfall Hike in Mavrovo National Park
After visiting the church, we went for lunch at a local guesthouse called T’ga za Jug (“Longing for the South”). The food was wonderful and the hosts were so super friendly that we spontaneously decided to stay the next night at their apartment. They also suggested we make a half-day trip to the neighboring village of Tresonche to visit the waterfall there. So, that is exactly what we did!
From Lazaropole to Tresonche, it is about an hour’s hike, followed by another hour to reach the waterfall. Despite the hot summer day, we enjoyed the hike tremendously. We were walking in shaded woods most of the time, following little streams and rivers. We made a few stops to cool our feet in the water and have a snack, which kept the kids happy.
The waterfall itself was a beautiful surprise! It was surrounded by such pristine nature—clean, cold water and lush flowers everywhere. Best of all, we had it entirely to ourselves. We even went skinny dipping in the waterfall pool! It was the perfect conclusion to our North Macedonia trip.
Until Next Time, Macedonia
That refreshing dip in the waterfall was the perfect finale to our adventure. The following day, we packed up the Land Cruiser and made the long drive back home to Slovenia, with our memory cards full and our batteries recharged.
Lazaropole was exactly the kind of hidden gem we were looking for—wild, quiet, and welcoming. I am already looking forward to my next visit.
Want to read more? If you enjoyed this article, check out my other posts from my adventures across the Balkans.
Come with me! If you want to experience the magic of North Macedonia yourself—and capture it through your lens—I am leading a Photography Workshop there this September during the harvest season. It is my favorite time of year for light and colors.
