The Surva Festival is a significant event in Bulgaria, rooted in ancient pagan traditions. It still plays a vital role in local life and culture. The most renowned celebration takes place annually in the town of Pernik, just outside Sofia. Every year it draws several hundred performers and thousands of spectators, making it a grand affair. However, such large-scale events can often feel commercialized, with limited opportunities for photography and a less personal experience. Seeking a more authentic and intimate festival, my Bulgarian friend Dancho and I reached out to Georgi, a local mask maker in the village of Kosharevo. After making arrangements, we set off to experience Surva in Kosharevo. Below is the narrative, accompanied by videos and photos from our journey!
Surva doesn’t have set dates, so Dancho inquired with Georgi about when to visit. Surva festival was on the second weekend after the New Year. I invited my friend Amadeja to come along; she’s an exceptional photographer and great company, always up for an adventure. To make the long trip worthwhile, we planned an extended stay in Bulgaria. Our first weekend was spent at a traditional Pomak wedding in Ribnovo village. Afterwards, we spent a few days in the Rhodope Mountains, capturing winter landscapes, traditional villages, and local people through our lenses. I will share the stories and photos from these experiences soon. However, the pinnacle of our journey was undoubtedly Surva in Kosharevo village!
Kosharevo Village
Kosharevo is a small village west of Sofia and Pernik, near the Serbian border. The village has seen better days, with its local school closed and many houses in ruins. Despite this, about 180 people still live there. Kosharevo remains a key center for the Surva tradition, hosting an authentic annual festival. Local Survakari return each year to participate.
Kukeri in Kosharevo are known for their unique masks, adorned with feathers from chickens, ducks, and geese. Their costumes feature red stripes and wooden masks, heavily decorated with feathers. Most kukeri carry large wooden hammers and are known for their dynamic movements, creating noise with their large bells as they jump and run.
Georgi Ivanov, the mask maker
We arrived in Kosharevo and met Georgi first in the town square. A public facility nearby stores the local kukeri group’s masks. Georgi, a young man from Kosharevo, lives and works in Pernik. He and his wife, Moni, have two young daughters, ages 3 and 5. Both girls participate in kukeri. Georgi showed us the masks and shared the plan for the next few days. After taking some photos, he invited us to his workshop. We enjoyed coffee and raspberry juice there. He then showed us how to make a surva mask. He also opened his showroom. It displays costumes, masks, bells, and photos from previous festivals.
Georgi has dedicated himself to Surva and mask-making. He even has tattoos of traditional motifs featuring Surva, kukeri, and Bulgarian history. We planned to meet the next day during the main event’s preparations. Georgi, a leader of a group with over 100 kukeri, will be very busy.
Surva Festival
Masked festivals are a common thread in many European cultures, with traditions spanning across Spain, Italy, Austria, France, Croatia, Hungary, and Slovenia. These festivals share ancient pagan origins, featuring intimidating masks and costumes with a unified purpose: to dispel the winter chill and ward off malevolent spirits.
In Bulgaria, “Surva” is the blanket term for such festivities. Numerous villages across the country celebrate these festivals, typically in January and February, with each village boasting its unique mask and costume designs, elevating these elements to an art form. The participants, known locally as “Kukeri” or “Survakari” (often translated to “Mummers” in English), embody various characters. Among these are the leaders, adorned in “voivode” attire (with Georgi being a notable example), the bear tamer and his bear, a priest (pop), a bridal couple, the flag bearer, and musicians, to name a few.
We went back to Kosharevo the next day, on a Saturday afternoon. The square was ready, with a huge pile of wood in the center, protective fences, food stands, torches, and a large “Kosharevo” sign set for ignition. Since everyone was busy, we decided to visit Banishte, a nearby village known for its strong Surva tradition. Their masks were quite distinct, making the visit rewarding.
We returned to Kosharevo just in time to see everyone dressing up at Georgi’s place. The mood was festive, with everyone ready to head out to the big event. There were three Survakari groups, each with its unique mask style. It was incredible! I won’t detail the event too much. Instead, watch the movie and view the photos below. They convey more than words ever could!
The Survakari Procession around Kosharevo
On Surva’s final day, the group gathers in the morning for a group photo. Then, the procession through the village starts. Survakari march around, announcing their arrival to each home with bells and drums. Homeowners greet them with traditional fare like banitsa pastry, cold cuts, or even full meals of meat and stew. Wine and rakia are also essential for the welcome. The Survakari bless each home and drive away evil spirits with their masks and clamor. It’s heartwarming to witness the joy and unity, at least for this one day each year!
Surva, Kukeri or Survakari – Conclusion
Experiencing Surva in Kosharevo and meeting Georgi was a highlight of our trip to Bulgaria. Authenticity made it unforgettable. Bigger events might be more photogenic, but the passion of people who cherish their traditions and history is invaluable. and here, Kosharevo and its kukeri really delivered!
I hope you enjoyed the story, photos, and video. I’m looking forward to sharing more from Bulgaria, the Balkans, Slovenia, and other travels.
Lastly, a big thank you to the wonderful people we met.
Dancho Hristov – my friend, a fellow photographer from Sofia and my birding mentor. He made all the necessary arrangements for this trip and was always helping with translating and logistics. Here is his blog post from Surva.
Amadeja Knez – my friend and fellow photographer from Slovenia. She is a wonderful wedding photographer and I learned a lot about storytelling when photographing people from her.
Matej Nahtigal – a renowned Slovenian film director who has generously helped me edit the above video. A rare human without any social media or a website 🙂
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