Bosnia-Herzegovina is a country I know quite well, having traveled extensively throughout the nation numerous times since 1999. One aspect that continually draws me in is its people and their traditional ways of life, which starkly contrast with those in my home country of Slovenia. This summer, I ventured into central Bosnia, first visiting Travnik and then moving on to Planina Vlašić. The latter is renowned for its traditional shepherding methods, the unique Vlašićki Sir cheese, and a special indigenous breed of sheep known as Pramenka. I spent three days there, and here is the full story.
I spent three days camping at one of the shepherd cottages. My gracious hosts, Pajo and Hata Rubanović, allowed me to document their daily life, share meals, stay with them, and meet their neighbors. This video is the outcome of this unforgettable experience!
Planina Vlašić
Planina Vlašić is a remarkable mountain known for its imposing height, with peaks like Paljenik reaching up to 1,943 meters. This beautiful range is not only known for its natural beauty but also for the production of the exquisite Vlašićki Sir cheese, made from the milk of the indigenous Pramenka sheep. The traditional way of life, preserved over centuries, continues to thrive in these highlands, and remains largely unchanged. While one part of Planina Vlašić is developed into a popular ski resort, the rest of the mountain retains a serene and relatively unknown charm and pristine nature. The town of Travnik serves as the perfect starting point to explore the mountain. Hiking in nature, meeting local shepherds and sharing a meal with them is the best way to experience Planina Vlašić.
Dubska Pramenka Sheep
One of the key attractions of Planina Vlašić is its native sheep, known as Dubska pramenka. I first encountered this breed on a Bosnian journalist’s YouTube channel. He travels across Bosnia, interviewing diverse and intriguing individuals. His captivating stories and explorations inspired me to meet the shepherds who preserve this traditional sheep variety.
Dubska pramenka, also referred to as Vlašićka or Travnička, stands out as one of the larger sheep breeds. It boasts unique horns and coarse fleece. Predominantly found in Central Bosnia and, since the last Yugoslavia war, also in Northern Croatia. Local farmers in Vlašić shared that they tried other, more common sheep breeds. However, these breeds struggled in the harsh mountainous conditions. Eventually, they reverted to the Dubska pramenka, lauded for its disease resistance and hardiness. Primarily, the Pramenka is valued for its milk, with meat being a secondary product. Wool, once a profitable commodity, now yields little financial return. The most cherished local product is vlašićki sir, a unique white cheese made only in the mountains near Travnik. The finest vlašićki sir, I learned, comes from Planina Vlašić.
Photos from Planina Vlašić
Conclusion
My three-day stay at Planina Vlašić flew by swiftly. Arriving without any preparations or expectations, I was pleasantly surprised by the experience. The highlight was the Rubanović family’s incredible hospitality and kindness. They welcomed me warmly, treating me like a family member. I had the opportunity to participate in their daily life, engage in family activities, and meet their friends and relatives. This unforgettable story wouldn’t have been possible without them.
Should you find yourself in Planina Vlašić, seek out Pajo and Hata. They provide visitors with simple yet delicious organic food, and any contribution you make will be greatly appreciated.
Don’t forget to check out my other stories from the Balkans. This region is my favorite part of the world, and I plan to share many more adventures!
You’re invited to join me on my unique, small-group photography workshops throughout the Balkans and Slovenia.
Additionally, if you are an independent traveler and photographer, be sure to check out Photohound. There, you will find some of the best photo spots in Bosnia and around the world!